Usagi here. I'm taking over today's post, so sit tight. (Update: This took forever! Forget order!)

I can't deny that I've been throughly enjoying all the shopping and food, but today was something I've been looking forward to since Bee mentioned it months ago. We were going to visit the DMZ, the 250 kilometers (160 miles) long, 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) wide buffer zone between North and South Korea. But more importantly we were going all the way to the Joint Security Area (JSA) to see, and technically cross, the Military Demarcation Line (MDL). When the western world thinks of the DMZ, it's the MDL that they picture; the heavily guarded line that cuts Korea in two.

Mr. and Mrs. Bee were kind enough to purchase all of us tickets for the full-day Panmunjom, or Joint Security Area (JSA), tour. This includes a trip to the War Memorial of Korea, lunch at Imjingak Park, Camp Bonifas, and the JSA. A full 6 hours and 30 minutes, with two of those set aside as travel time.

The tour bus would be picking us up at the President Hotel in Meyong-dong, about 4 or 5 miles from the Bee house in Gangnam. Thankfully Mama Bee was driving, saving us from a full-on Seoul subway rush hour battle. Hamu and I did enough of that in Tokyo, we've tapped out for a while. Breakfast was a pit stop across the street for fresh kimbap eaten as Mama Bee navigated through ridiculous Seoul traffic. We'll have to write a post just about driving in Seoul. Long story short, not for the faint of heart.

The Cast of Characters

Our tour group was a mix of Chinese, Finish, Singaporean, Japanese, French, and Filipino tourists, with us rounding out the group as the only Americans. While citizens of China and South Korea could take the JSA tour, they must go through additional screening to receive permission. Chinese citizens must apply 10 days in advance, while those from South Korea will be subjected to a two-month background check and, as our tour guide added, would be watched closely for some time after. This would be the first time Bee, now a US citizen, would be able to go so far.

Our tour guide was an animated Korean woman whose father was from Pyongyang, and added in plenty of anecdotes of how the war and separation impacted not only her family, but her friends' and neighbors' families as well. It's not uncommon to hear stories of families cut in two, sons severed from their parents, mothers and children sent one way or another. You rarely hear talk of wanting to "defeat the North", but rather the hope for peaceful reunification, to become whole again.

The Tour: War Memorial of Korea

Our first stop was the War Memorial of Korea, a museum dedicated to memorializing the military history of Korea. Unfortunately our stop wasn't long enough to get as good of a look as we would have liked. If anything it was a teaser that added the museum to our list of place to come back to some day. After 45 minutes we loaded back into the bus and were treated to the death defying stunts of our bus driver as we navigated out of the packed parking lot.

Imjingak

An hour north of Seoul is Imjingak, a tourism hub for all things related to the Korean War. The park was built in 1972 as a way to provide comfort to those on both sides who can't return to their home towns, friends, and families, and with the hope that refunification will be possible one day. It is the furthest point you can travel to freely before the DMZ, and contains the northernmost train station in the country.

We stopped here for lunch, bulgogi-jeongol, and explored for an hour. Imjingak has much to see, such as the 3rd Tunnel, a tunnel dug by North Korea that was discovered in 1978, Dora Observatory Post, the Freedom Bridge, a small amusement park, pool, and more. You can see North Korea from here, but we were going to do one better.

Camp Bonifas

After lunch we piled back onto the bus and proceeded through the first set of checkpoints. Here, Republic of Korea (ROK) and UN soilders checked our passports and guided us over the river to Camp Bonifas for a 30-minute briefing and bus swap. From this point on we would be traveling on a UN bus with a UN soilder to the JSA.

Between the Camp Bonifas and the JSA are active mine fields, and Freedom Village or Daeseong-dong. The people that inhabit this village are Korean citizens, however they are not subject to the same taxation or required military service as the rest of the country. In fact they are perhaps some of the richest farmers in Korea, as their produce is highly profitable. However only those who lived in the village prior to the war, their descendants, or women who marry into the village can live there. Residents must spend 240 days out of the year at home, and abide by an 11pm curfew. Soilders act as guards around the clock.

From the UN bus we could see Daeseong-dong's 323 ft. flag pole, and its 287 lbs. South Korean flag. Across the MDL, North Korea'a version of Freedom Village, Propaganda Villge or Kijŏng-dong, stands their recently heightened answering flagpole standing at 525 ft. and flying a 595 lbs. flag. However the situation in Kijŏng-dong is quite the opposite. But that's a larger story for another time.

The JSA

The JSA is the closest you can get to a physical manifestation of tense silence. North Korea's famous propoganda broadcast was absent, it runs mainly at night. Our tour group exited the bus and entered the Freedom House. We formed two lines and, after another quick briefing, the UN soilders led us upstairs and out the rear door.

Outide was the same sight we've seen over and over online and in documentaries. Beyond the rows of military buildings and the line of stock still ROK soilders was North Korea. The old stone building of Panmon Hall is a blinding contrast to the newly updated curves and glass of the Freedom House. We were instructed to make no gestures, and to stand between two ROK soilders at all times. Both sides were always watching.

After a few minutes, we were lead down into the Military Armistice Commission (MAC) building. Spanning across each border, this room is the only location where North and South Korean soilders and visitors can freely cross the border and stand in either country. Who controls the building changes depending on what soilders occupy it. Luckily it was under ROK control at the time. Inside is a long, simple room with conference tables and a guard at either end. We were allowed to walk around the room freely and take pictures, but not touch anything.

The few minutes we were given ended quickly, and we were led back out in our two lines and escorted back to our bus. Just like that it was over. We had been standing in North Korea, and suddenly we weren't. The trip back to Camp Bonifas was quick, and followed by, hilariously enough, a trip to the gift shop. It was perhaps the most surreal, yet accurate depiction of the state of things in Korea: a Cold War that has divide a nation; one country flourishing as the other flounders.

There is a lot more I can say about this part of our trip. I could go on for hours, explain things like the Freedom Bridge where repatriated soilders and POWs returned home and family members visit in lieu of seeing their loved ones on the other side. But the details deserve more than a quick post.

For now, the day wraps up as we are put back on our old bus, taken through another passport check, and rocked wildly to sleep all the way back to Seoul. Thankfully the next few days are far less heavy.